Paddling out
The first skill involved in surfing is to get out behind the breaking
waves by paddling. When paddling out through the gentle waves, it’s much easier to go under them
than over them. This is called duck diving, the technique is as follows:
| 1. |
Paddle towards the wave. |
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2. |
When the wave is close to the nose of your board, slide forward a little. |
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3. |
Grip the rails (side of the board) just ahead of your shoulders and push the nose under. |
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4. |
As the wave moves over you, move backwards towards your knees to lift the nose of the board. |
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5. |
Come up behind the wave. |
Choosing and catching
waves
Choosing waves is vital! You need to estimate whether you can generate enough paddling speed to catch the wave. Obviously the knowledge and experience necessary to make the decision correctly will only come with real time experience in the water. Having chosen your wave, an aggressive paddling action is required to get you onto it before you stand and ride down its face.
As your board is picked up by the wave a dropping away sensation signals the instant to stand. Place your hands on the deck under your shoulders in a push up position, with your fingers wrapped slightly around the rails,
and bring your feet up underneath you. Take your hands away from the board to extend your knees and complete your standing action. Your knees should also be slightly bent.
YOUR PRONE TO FEET MOVEMENT SETS THE SCENE FOR THE WHOLE RIDE
Putting your board on a slight angle as you drop down the wave is the best position to be in. Once control is gained, you can glide down into a more vertical track to begin to set up your first turn. Your take-off requires fine judgement to achieve correct positioning on the wave. Aim for the section of the wave that hasn’t started to break and curl over yet. Remember to keep well ahead of the break, OTHERWISE YOU’RE TOAST!
Turning
The final area of skill concerns turns. These can be either forehand or backhand. Place your weight onto your rear foot to dig the tail of the board into the wave, this establishes a pivot point for the turn by lifting the nose and clearing the forward rails from the water. You then lean in the direction of the turn, which digs in the rail creating directional drive. AND THAT’S SURFING!!!!!!!!
WARNING…..
Surfing accidents occur because people over estimate their ability to ride big waves. Surf sports always look exciting, especially when the waves are awesome, but these conditions suit only those capable of handling them. If in doubt about a particular swell, it’s much wiser to turn back and live to surf another day …..
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